June 25 - Day 21 - Saint Malo

We had the perfect day for exploring Saint Malo, with a Scenic Walk map from the Office of Tourism and a list of special places from the book All The Light We Cannot See, we were equipped for a few hours of exploring. 

The first outing was dedicated to walking the city walls (ramparts). 

From the tour guide: "The ramparts girding entirely the town of Saint Malo Intra Muros (old city) on a 1,754 meter circuit were built during two different historical periods: the original walls, built between the Middle Ages and the end of the 17th century, and the expansions made from 1708 to 1744."

The town flag (blue and white cross and red quarter brocaded with the ermine taken from the towns coat of arms) flies above even the French flag. The only town in France allowed to do this, apparently, a privilege dating back to 1590 when the town was autonomous. 

From the Castle (now the Hotel de Ville = Town Hall) looking north west, the National Fort (1689) appears to be on an island just off the coast. But this is high tide. 

When we returned later in the day we could have walked there (left - midday high tide, right later afternoon as the tide is going out). 

Note - some of the biggest tidal changes in the world happen here, up to 12 meters, and they are so strong that they have a generation plant (hydro electric) on the river (La Rance).

Apparently the Germans used this castle to hold captured French Resistance fighters during WWII.

We walked west along the wall for a view of Ile du Grande Be, where Chateaubriand is buried (he wanted a view of the sea and the sound of the wind for his place of burial), and Ile du Petit Be with another 17th century Fort.  Again the high tide versus low tide makes for very different impressions. 

The western wall also houses Quebec House. Saint Malo is the birthplace of Jacques Cartier and he sailed from this port for his adventures finding and naming Canada, Quebec and Montreal (in the 1530's).

La Chine, Quebec. Named by Jacques Cartier, as he was quite sure he had made it to China.  Who knew? 

The walking tour was fantastic with beautiful views out to the sea, down to the beaches, the doors to the city, and the views of the streets. 

Part 1 complete

We had a midday break for some lunch in our amazing little apartment, located in the heart of the old city. Our views are of the busy streets and the beautiful Cathedral. 

Next we headed out for the Tour inspired by 

All The Light We Cannot See

Anthony Doerr

Pulitzer Prize Winner

(Also now a Netflix 4 part series)

A little research helped us understand that while the story takes place in Saint Malo, and the names of the streets are real, the actual addresses are not.

But! We didn't know this until after we went to find 4 rue Vauborel, Uncle Etienne's house, and we met some of the occupants of the house (😳). They were very kind in explaining that the address was fictional, and that these buildings had been rebuilt in the 1950's.  They did give us some historical information about very old, original buildings down the street, and were very friendly about it. 

We wandered the streets that Marie Laure learns to navigate, and found the entrance to the beach her aunt takes her to, the Plage du Mole.

The Cathedral bells she heard were actually ringing this afternoon as we walked by. 

And we walked in her path along rue de Chartes (radio drop off), rue Robert Surcouf (to her Boulangerie), and rue de la Crosse (where the occupied hotel was in the story).  

An interesting article on the book and town:

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/all-the-light-we-cannot-see-saint-malo-novel-tv

Part 2 complete 

And to top off the day, we got to meet Anne-Marie's cousin Jimmy. Jimmy is a former cyclist who moved to France from Ireland back in 1988 and now lives here with his wife Ana.  Their son Anthony came along for dinner too. So nice to meet such great people and have a wonderful dinner of crepes and good conversation. 

And at long last, we enjoyed a sunset on the beach, at 10 pm. 

Back in the saddle tomorrow, thanks for enjoying Saint Malo with us!