We wanted to explore the Juno Beach Center Museum and Bunker Tour, but didn't want to leave our panniers unattended on our bikes outside, so instead we left them in our tent and cycled with just our lock.
To our surprise (we have never seen this before) the Juno Beach Center not only welcomes cyclists (we got a 5 Euro discount) but also makes it easy with these lockers you can roll your fully loaded bikes into!
The whole center was created by and is still managed by Canadians. Imagine, Canadians encouraging cycling, don't tell Doug Ford!
The museum is very well done. An immersive film to start you off and make you feel like you are on a landing craft, landing on Juno Beach on June 6 1944 🤢
Canada declared war on Germany just one week after Britain, in September 1939. Marc and I had the place to ourselves and we learned from the staff that everyone is Canadian who works there, and they are representative of the age of the men who landed (18-24).
We then went outside for a Bunker tour. Our guide was so knowledgeable, the tour behind us kept catching up. Our guide knew so much and was so confident in her knowledge and enthusiastic, she really wanted us to know all the details.
The creation of the Atlantic Wall is described as "the greatest building project of the 20th century, mobilizing 2 million labourers over a period of 3 years." These bunkers had walls of concrete 2 meters thick. They were build based on a published instruction book and were very hard to penetrate.
I must admit, after seeing Utah Beach, and Omaha Beach, and even Gold Beach, I thought perhaps the Canadians had the opportunity to land with less obstacles - no cliffs to scale, no hills for the enemy to hide behind, only small dunes to cross. But no. Juno beach is just west of Courseulles-sur-Mer, which is a Port, and therefore very important. In fact the Germans had started building bunkers and fortification here even before the start of the construction of the Atlantic Wall. Our Canadians were facing some serious counter attack for sure.
The Juno Beach Center is very well done, and a lovely way to remember and teach about the 14,000 Canadian men who came ashore on D Day here.
Across Juno Beach and the battles inland that day, 340 Canadians were killed, 574 wounded, and another 47 taken prisoner by the Germans. These terrible losses were only exceeded by the Americans at Omaha. Despite the high losses, the Canadians advanced further inland than any other troops that day.
From JUNO (we went back and got our stuff and our tent and our pain au chocolat that was delivered to the campground) and cycled along the beach to Sword Beach = British landing.
Very interesting and eclectic architecture along the beach with some Victorian mansions and some seaside villas.
(That's Marc behind me.)
I almost caused an accident on a bike path when I tried to take a photo of a man riding with his cute dog.
He noticed me taking a photo and abruptly stopped, but he didn't warn his wife who was right behind him 😬. Luckily they did not collide, but he may be facing some reprimand ... Sorry, I can't help myself but speak to a dog going by.
More beachfront riding.
And then we turned down to follow the Canal de Caen, for 4 paved, straight, flat (borrowing) kilometers.
Until we came upon Pegasus Bridge, famously taken on June 5/6 by British and American teams arriving in gliders and landing on the water (described in The Longest Day).
We are camping outside Ranville, where we found a Commonwealth cemetery to add perspective to our day.
Our campsite has a picnic table!! It is remarkable how much that helps, unpacking, organizing, cooking, writing post cards and relaxing. And would you believe who pulled in to be our neighbour tonight ... Alastair, our old Scottish friend from 2 days ago.
Happy to say we've had no rain today, and none in the forecast for tonight. We will sleep well with a symphony of birds .... Recorded by Merlin - all these birds are singing right now, right here. I have never had such a long list!
Today's Strava, with the morning spent at the museum, a short ride today.
Until tomorrow,
We are glad you finally had a nice dry day. It sounded like a great day with lots of history.
ReplyDeleteLove the pain au chocolat delivered to the campsite- woot woot! Amazing infrastructure to support your whole bike being at the museum- only a Canadian would be so thoughtful to plan for that kind of event. Bike rack I get, however a bike shack’- impressive. .
ReplyDeleteYou will forever have a completely new and detailed perspective on D-day after this trip.
ReplyDeleteCarolyn, your blog is simply outstanding.
ReplyDeleteI know how much time it takes, after a full day's adventures, to capture all the important information; to select which photos to post; while also setting up camp; preparing a meal; chatting to fellow cycle tourists; repairing the tent with magical Decathlon tape; and hopefully relaxing.
As they say, dans la belle France, "chapeau"!
Bon tour; bon route!
Marc : She does all that but once a week I put lube on the bike chains!
DeleteFirst of all how bad could it be with a discount right off the bat. Looks fantastic. History in the flesh. Carbo load with chocolate pastry and Alastair. Probably more Canadians there than in Toronto. Be safe tweet tweet enjoying the sounds of the Orange County black crows. Not so good for sleeping. Marc try to keep up with your wife.
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