Aug 30 2025 - BC Adventure - Alert Bay

Showers. We all needed them. And they felt good! 

Back at the Kwa'lilas Hotel. And a new guide to share more knowledge. Dani Dawson. 

Dani takes us back to Port McNeill for a foggy trip on a BC Ferry. Yes it is still Fog-ust. 

Alert Bay is a small island between the mainland and Vancouver Island. Home to about 1,200 residents and the U'mista Cultural Center. Rain doesn't hamper our walk of the village. 

And we make our way up Smitty's hill to the Nawalakw Garden. Here we meet Verna, who has tended to this garden for several years. She is a most charming host, with energy and wisdom, and a deep love for her community. She talks of the youth volunteers and the hope the garden provides. The jobs it has created and the availability of fresh produce it supplies. An impressive story, continuously being written as she is a lifelong learner and a humble leader.  

She greets us with snacks and drinks and stories as we wait out a downpour under the shelter of the waiting area. 

Nawalakw, meaning supernatural, is an organization supporting Food Security (grow with love), Language and Cultural Camps, Immersive Language Programs, and more.

We enjoy a tour of the garden and a taste of the strawberries, blueberries and blackberries. Nature's candy. 

From here we walk the hilly island community to the cultural centre for a special lunch and learn. 

The cultural center stands on the land of the former residential school, St. Michaels.  It was demolished in 2015, an act celebrated by most. An act allowing the community to focus on the future and heal. 

We have a guided tour of the art and treasures slowly being returned to their rightful owners after traveling to many foreign places. Many treasures were taken from the indigenous people here, when the potlach was banned. Museums and private collections are now returning these special items back home. No photos were to be taken in the climate controlled museum and display area. The pieces were stunning. 

Lunch was prepared for us. 

Homemade bannock and delicious fish soup. 

A feast enjoyed by all of us, even a super chatty traveller from New Jersey who took our group photos above. 

We ate, we learned and we enjoyed. 

A short walk from the Cultural Centre we found the tallest totem pole in the world, and the Big House of Alert Bay. 

The Kwakwaka'wakw tribal totem pole stands 53 meters high, although a portion at the top came down in a strong wind, and is now at the Cultural Centre. This pole represents 18 of the factions of this community, and includes the Sun Man, the Thunderbird and a whale. 

The sense of community is deep here. Our guide Dani waves at every car passing, and calls out to an auntie and uncle and a cousin. We enjoy her stories and wander back to the Ferry dock. 

Along the boardwalk these little shelters were built to allow for gatherings and discussions (photo above). 

The old fish processing plant remains, but the business is closed. 

A small church. 

Beautiful views. 

 

And once again, an eagle watching over us. 

Back at the hotel we are treated to a very special song and drum ceremony and a final dinner with Dani joining us to continue the conversation about truth, reconciliation and growth.