2025 Tour Day 19 - Suisse Normandie Part 2

When we woke up there were 11 tents, and 3 RVs all nestled together on a small parcel of land meant for 6 tents. Cozy. But honestly it wasn't a problem. We were first up and out and ready to climb back to Caen. And climb we did. Up and down and up again.  This part of the journey was different roads than yesterday and we got some spectacular views, like this poppy field. 

Seriously breathtaking. 

The green tunnel of trees made for beautiful light and shade. 

And then there were more hills to climb. 

Until we found our way back to the flat and safe and pretty Voie Verte Rail trail and back we cycled.

The paths are lined with spring flowers. 

We even found a little tiny strawberry. 

We already had a bakery in mind for our mid morning snack. Check out the baguettes! (We had pain au chocolat of course.)

Snack time on the trail. 

As we approached Caen, and the end of this section of the trail, more bridges and more people. 

At our lunch stop, we were lucky enough to share this picnic table with new friends. This family of 3 boys ages 8-6-4, shared not only their table but they shared their lunch too! So kind, and so yummy. 

And then we were back in the suburbs of Caen, and found both wind and rain 🤣

We are back at our familiar campground for another night's rest, another night with a picnic table, and so many chatty birds. 

This campsite does not have an accurate address on Google, or an accurate phone number. It was a challenge to find two days ago, but today we knew the way. 

On the ride here, we stopped to help a fellow cyclist (Charles) who had a map out and looked anxious. Sure enough he was looking for this campsite. So he followed us here. It is a very interesting place, carefully, slowly and meticulously run by an older gentleman, who remembers the war, and remembers supply planes (Allies) landing on the fields across the street.  So much history everywhere here. 

Our friend Alistair is on a ferry back to England tonight. Bon voyage. 

His place at the campsite has been taken by Peter, from the Netherlands, who is cycling home after spending the last year in Spain doing the Camino etc. 

So many interesting people we get to meet. 

Strava stats. 

Now that's getting your climbing in early! 

2025 Tour Day 18 - Suisse Normandie

We decided to leave the coast for an adventure. On the recommendation of our friend Pierre-Marie we decided to head south of Caen and explore the Suisse Normandie region. 

We found hills. 

But first, we left our campsite and headed for (our favourite) Decathlon - and not just a store this time, a Decathlon Village - complete with cafe and indoor climbing etc. More fuel and more tent repair tape required. 

En route we skirted Caen, and found ourselves in suburbs and bike paths.

We always love to guess the crop as we ride by. Admittedly we are pretty bad at that game, not being farmers. This time we stopped and explored. Turns out it is soybean.  Edamame anyone?

We found ourselves on the Voie Verte (Green Route) with other cyclists, and rollerbladers, and hikers. An old rail way line, we followed the rail trail along the Orne river. 

Fantastic trail. 

With rock faces, views of the river and very few interruptions - no roads to cross, no cars to think about. Pure joy. 

Complete with old bridges and a tunnel. 

One part of the paved trail ran alongside the old train tracks, you could still see them.  And then we saw small railcars approaching us.  

Yes families on small train cars, powered by pedaling. 

Totally adorable! 

The sun came out and the temperature climbed to 28°, and then we started to climb too...

Through the town of Clecy and into the hills of Suisse Normandie. Cows and fields and hills ... And even a golf course. 

A couple of very tough climbs and then a full on descent into Conde-en-Normandie.  

(We have to climb out of here tomorrow 😳)

It is nice to have had some good cycling. 

We checked in at the Municipal Campground that only has 6 plots, and although we were #7, they let us stay. By the time we returned from dinner the tent count was up to 10 + 2 RVs. Close quarters tonight. 

Treating ourselves to a restaurant dinner is harder than it sounds. Very few restaurants, and none that open until 7. We got a table at a lovely little place (Le Café des Quais Brasserie Restaurant) and tried very hard to be patient for the slow paced approach to the evening meal.  Once fed, we both felt better, and ready for bed. 

Strava details for the ride. 

Tomorrow we do the same, in reverse. 

2025 Tour Day 17 - JUNO and Pegasus Bridge

We wanted to explore the Juno Beach Center Museum and Bunker Tour, but didn't want to leave our panniers unattended on our bikes outside, so instead we left them in our tent and cycled with just our lock. 

To our surprise (we have never seen this before) the Juno Beach Center not only welcomes cyclists (we got a 5 Euro discount) but also makes it easy with these lockers you can roll your fully loaded bikes into! 

The whole center was created by and is still managed by Canadians. Imagine, Canadians encouraging cycling, don't tell Doug Ford! 

The museum is very well done. An immersive film to start you off and make you feel like you are on a landing craft, landing on Juno Beach on June 6 1944 🤢

Canada declared war on Germany just one week after Britain, in September 1939. Marc and I had the place to ourselves and we learned from the staff that everyone is Canadian who works there, and they are representative of the age of the men who landed (18-24). 

We then went outside for a Bunker tour. Our guide was so knowledgeable, the tour behind us kept catching up. Our guide knew so much and was so confident in her knowledge and enthusiastic, she really wanted us to know all the details. 

The creation of the Atlantic Wall is described as "the greatest building project of the 20th century, mobilizing 2 million labourers over a period of 3 years." These bunkers had walls of concrete 2 meters thick. They were build based on a published instruction book and were very hard to penetrate. 

I must admit, after seeing Utah Beach, and Omaha Beach, and even Gold Beach, I thought perhaps the Canadians had the opportunity to land with less obstacles - no cliffs to scale, no hills for the enemy to hide behind, only small dunes to cross. But no. Juno beach is just west of Courseulles-sur-Mer, which is a Port, and therefore very important. In fact the Germans had started building bunkers and fortification here even before the start of the construction of the Atlantic Wall.  Our Canadians were facing some serious counter attack for sure. 

The Juno Beach Center is very well done, and a lovely way to remember and teach about the 14,000 Canadian men who came ashore on D Day here. 

340 Canadians

Across Juno Beach and the battles inland that day, 340 Canadians were killed, 574 wounded, and another 47 taken prisoner by the Germans. These terrible losses were only exceeded by the Americans at Omaha. Despite the high losses, the Canadians advanced further inland than any other troops that day.

From JUNO (we went back and got our stuff and our tent and our pain au chocolat that was delivered to the campground) and cycled along the beach to Sword Beach = British landing.

Very interesting and eclectic architecture along the beach with some Victorian mansions and some seaside villas. 

(That's Marc behind me.)

I almost caused an accident on a bike path when I tried to take a photo of a man riding with his cute dog. 

He noticed me taking a photo and abruptly stopped, but he didn't warn his wife who was right behind him 😬. Luckily they did not collide, but he may be facing some reprimand ...  Sorry, I can't help myself but speak to a dog going by. 

More beachfront riding. 

And then we turned down to follow the Canal de Caen, for 4 paved, straight, flat (borrowing) kilometers. 

Until we came upon Pegasus Bridge, famously taken on June 5/6 by British and American teams arriving in gliders and landing on the water (described in The Longest Day). 

We are camping outside Ranville, where we found a Commonwealth cemetery to add perspective to our day. 

Our campsite has a picnic table!!  It is remarkable how much that helps, unpacking, organizing, cooking, writing post cards and relaxing. And would you believe who pulled in to be our neighbour tonight ... Alastair, our old Scottish friend from 2 days ago.

Happy to say we've had no rain today, and none in the forecast for tonight.  We will sleep well with a symphony of birds .... Recorded by Merlin - all these birds are singing right now, right here. I have never had such a long list!

Today's Strava, with the morning spent at the museum, a short ride today. 

Until tomorrow,